Category Archives: Tools

Winding Sticks; Now in two sizes.

Winding sticks, 14″ in front, 22″ in rear

Winding sticks are again back in stock.  The standard 14″ size is still available, along with a longer 22″ version.  The added length can be beneficial with use on wide boards, or tasks such as flattening a bench top. The 22″ length means they will fit inside any tool chest sized for a #7 jointer plane, which are also 22″ in length, The 14″ sticks are more compact, and work best on narrower stock as they are easier to manipulate and are more stable when balancing on narrow boards. Both work the same way, and more information about these winding sticks can be found here.  They may be purchased from the store here.

Other changes we have made is to increase the thickness from 1/2″ at the base to 9/16″  This was accomplished by switching to 5/4 stock to start with, and offers more stability, especially on the longer sizes.  Finish has changed to Minwax Antique Oil, which offers a higher degree of protection than linseed oil.

We also would like to mention the presence of pin knots.  Pin knots are common in plain sawn walnut, and appear as small closed knots in the face of a board, usually near the center.  These are not considered a defect because of their small size.  When using quarter sawn stock, these knots show up running across the face of the board. Many of these winding sticks have them, as shown in the picture below.  None are open knots and they will not affect the performance of the tool.

Please note:  Because of the increase in cost of quarter sawn walnut, in part due to the thousand cankers disease, and the fact we are now using 5/4 stock, there will be a price increase from $50 to $55 in mid September.  We wanted to offer these initially at the same $50 price since so many are waiting for them.  The 22″ version will not change.  Thank you for your understanding .

Pin knot visible in the side of this winding stick.

Winding Sticks out of stock

Due to the recent blog post by Chris Schwarz on the Poplar Woodworking web site, there has been a surge in sales of winding sticks and current stock is depleted.  We will be making more, but it could be a couple of months before completion.  Signing up for our newsletter will allow anyone interested to know when they are again in stock as soon as it happens.  Thank you all for your support and patience.

 

New Spill Planes

A new batch of spill planes is has been completed, and there are several in the store. This run has, in addition to the spalted maple and black cherry, includes several in European Beech.  Each plane has been sharpened and test cut, and is ready to use right out of the box.  Most of these will be going to Handworks next week and will be offered for sale.  I do not have a stand there, but will have them at Sterling Tool Works booth.  I hope to be there myself on Friday, so please stop by to say hi.

Spill planes with test cut spills

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

 

 

 

Side Bead Planes now in Store

We currently have a restock of improved side bead planes in the store.  These are available in bead sizes of 1/8″, 3/16″, and 1/4″.  It should be mentioned that our sizing is a measurement of the bead itself, and that the actual profile, including the quirk, is about 1/32″ wider than the bead size.  Thus the 1/8 is 5/32″ wide, the 3/16 is 7/32″, and the 1/4 is 9/32″.  More information about the side beads can be found here.

From left 1/8″, 3/16″, and 1/4″

Taking Orders for Side Beads

We are currently taking orders for side bead planes, the construction of which are now under way.  These will be offered in three sizes:  1/8″, 3/16″. and 1/4″.  Constructed of quarter sawn American Beech, with tapered O-1 tool steel irons, each plane is sharpened and test cut, and is ready to go right out of the box.  Expected delivery will be approximately the end of April.  Price is $275 each, plus shipping.  If interested, contact us and we will reserve any sizes you wish.  Payment will be due upon completion.  Quantities are limited to 8 planes in each size.

For more information about our side beads, click here.

Heels are stamped with sizes

The Cock Bead Plane

The cock bead plane is used to cut cock beading for drawer surrounds, either stuck onto the case sides of applied to rabbets cut into the drawer fronts.  Often found on period furniture, it provides both a visual detail to the drawer as well as protection to  veneered fronts, since the bead covers the edges of the drawer.  The cock bead differs from a side bead in a couple of ways:  There is no fence or depth stop, and the plane will also cut a fillet next to the bead, which is necessary when the beading is applied to the case itself.  When beading drawer dividers, both edges would receive a bead, and the material  between the beads will also be removed with this plane.  On the case sides, where only the inside edges get the bead,  the fillet will allow room for a conventional bench plane to be used to remove the remaining material on the outside edges.  Also, the iron tends to be bedded at a higher pitch because they are used going both directions and will encounter situations of working against the grain.  The plane we are producing was patterned after an original, is bedded at 60 degrees, and is only 7″ in length, making it extremely light weight and nimble to use.  Quartersawn American Beech is the wood of choice.   The bead is boxed using persimmon cut on a bias to match the bed angle of the iron.

The first run was small to test the market, and, judging by the interest, most likely these will be produced again in the future.  Price is $250.

Currently out of stock.  To learn when the next run will be made, and have first opportunity to reserve a plane, sign up for the Red Rose Reproductions Newsletter.

Below are some pointers for using the cock bead plane.

Cock Bead Plane

a comparison of the 7″ long cock bead plane  with a standard 10″ long 3/16″ side bead plane.

John M. Whelan, in his book The Wooden Plane, Its History Form, and Function,  says this of the cock bead plane:

“It is a molding plane with a semicircular groove in the sole. The iron matches and has horizontal cutting extensions on either side.”

I sharpened the iron in this way, and with some experimenting, I found that it was very difficult, if not impossible, to end up with a bead precisely at the edge of the board. Starting the cut was difficult without any fence or other guide.  The bead tended to either run off the board, or leave a fillet on the outside edge.  Next, the blade  was sharpened so that it faded into the corner of the bead on the blind side, and the horizontal extension on that side was ground back so it could not cut.  Now, to start the cut, the plane is tilted, and the semicircular groove served as a guide.  Shown below is the sequence I have found to cut very well.

First, draw some hash marks across the work piece with a pencil to gauge your progress.  Start the cut with the plane tilted slightly away from the work piece; just enough to allow the groove to act as a fence.  Take a couple of passes at this angle.  Placing your thumb on top of the plane in front of the wedge, with your fingers riding underneath against the stock. gives good control of the plane.

Starting the cut with the plane tilted slightly away from the work piece.  Note the pencil lines to gauge progress.

Once a track is established, gradually bring the plane into the vertical position over the next several passes. Once the plane is vertical, the fillet will be across to the escapement side of the plane.  It is important to hold the plane as perpendicular to the stock so the fillet will be flat.  Also, keep the plane against the outside edge of the stock to ensure the bead does not run off the side.

Over the next several passes, bring the plane into the vertical position.

As the plane progresses, keep an eye on the top of the bead.  There is no depth stop, so use the pencil lines to know when to stop. One they disappear, full depth has been reached.  Often, abbreviated length cuts are necessary to keep the depth even.

 

Full depth has been reached.

Once the first side is completed, flip the stock around and repeat the process on the second side.  This becomes a bit more tricky, as you will need to watch both the bead depth and fillet depth in the center.  Leaning the plane a bit either way can help blend the center.  Most likely, there will be some tracks, which can be removes with a narrow scraper that fits into the space between the beads. In the photo below, both the bead and fillet are close to completion.  Note the pencil line on the bead.

Second side bead nearly complete.

Finished beading.  Note the tracks that should be scraped out with a narrow scraper.

Cutting a bead on 3/16″ stock for applied cock beading is pretty straight forward.  Make a pass with the plane tilted first to one side, then the other, to break the corners.  Then plane straight down until the full profile is formed, keeping the plane pushed against the blind side.

When cutting either profile, keep the shavings from accumulating in the throat of the plane.  Thin narrow shavings have little beam strength, and can clog the plane.  Pull them clear after each pass.

The cock bead plane, with sampled of both applied (left) and stuck beading. (right)

 


Acer Ferrous Toolworks Garters

Paul Peters, of Acer Ferrous Toolworks, has developed additional components for the leg vice wood screw.   The garter, which is used to attach the wood screw to the chop (movable jaw) of the vice, is now available.  This allows the chop to move in conjunction with the hub of the screw when opening the vice.  There is no need to pull the chop open by hand.  The garters are 4″ square, and are split in half to allow for installation around the screw.  Thickness is 3/8″ for the aluminum and 1/4″ for the brass, and will slip into the grove at the base of the screw hub. (The groove is sized for the proper garter.)  Four countersunk screw holes, and supplied screws, are all that is needed for installation.  The garter can be oriented either  square or in a diamond position, as shown.

Acer Ferrous wood vice screw with brass garter and prototype handle.

Garters is available in either solid brass, which can be purchased here, or in aluminum with a black anodized finish, available here.  Both come with matching screws.

Brass Garter with brass screws.

 

Aluminum garter with black anodize finish and screws.

 

 

Spill Planes again in the Store

The current run of spill planes is now available for purchase in our store.  There are three wood options;  American Beech, Black Cherry, and Maple, with some light figure and/or spalting.  All are priced at $135, plus shipping. For more details about the spill plane, click here.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Spill planes in Beech, Cherry, and Spalted Maple

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Spill Plane in black cherry.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Spill Plane in American Beech

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Spill Plane in Spalted Maple

Spill Plane Update

Currently, the spill plane is out of stock.  The next batch is under way, and we hope to have them completed by mid November, and back in the store at that time.  These will be available in American Beech, Black Cherry, and Maple, which has some spalting and curly grain.

Anyone wishing to reserve a plane can do so by contacting us.  Payment will be due upon completion.

Here are a few progress photos:

Spill Planes with wedges cut and ready for bedding of the irons.

Spill Planes with wedges cut and ready for bedding of the irons.

Flattening the irons.

Flattening the irons.

Acer-Ferrous Toolworks wooden vice screws

Acer-Ferrous Toolworks was started by a young man, Paul Peters, whom I have been mentoring in woodworking since he was a boy.  Paul recently graduated from a trade school as a machinist, and decided to combine his two interests, woodworking and metalworking, into a business venture.  He purchased a 1910 Monarch lathe, and made his own tooling to produce wood vice screws.  His first product, a leg vice screw and nut, is shown below.

The 2 1/2″ diameter, 2 threads per inch screw is made of hard maple ( Acer saccharum), riven out of the log to ensure straight grain, and vacuum kiln dried.  The octagonal hub is a separate piece of wood, and is threaded and glued to the screw.  Overall length of the screw is approximately 24″, of which 4″ is the hub.  The hub measures 3 1/2″ across the flats.  There is a 3/8″ moat cut in at the base of the hub down to 2″ diameter for the garter (User supplied.).  A 1″ diameter hole is also bored through the hub for the handle, also provided by the user.

The nut is also hard maple, and measures 8″ x 4″ x 2″, with the threaded hole centered in the face. This leaves plenty of room for mounting holes to be drilled.

As an accessory, garters are also available in either brass or black anodized aluminum.  More information about the garters can be found here.

The two piece design allows the option for making the hub of a different wood, and retaining the maple screw.  Anyone interested in this option, or with requests for other sizes, can contact Paul at prpinthehills@gmail.com

Red Rose Reproductions is currently marketing and selling these screws. Price is $155. To purchase, click here.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Acer-Ferrous leg vice screw.

 

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Bench screw hub.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Hub base showing garter moat.

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Screw threads

 

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Bench screw nut

VLUU L200 / Samsung L200

Assembled screw and nut